Flavorful Kebabs, Aromatic Biryani and So Much More: An Indian Metropolis Gains Recognition on UNESCO's Gastronomy List.
Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network β including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city β following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 β to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city β the capital of India's most populous state β is at last in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs β as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers β is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani β the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat β spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and kiosks β little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative β shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.